Posts Tagged ‘Foldback Right’

Momiji Couture Contest Winner & Exhibition of Finalists

By Guy Sangster Adams

Last July the Momiji Couture Contest was launched at the New Designers show at the Business Design Centre in London. The competition called for entries not only from fashion and textile students and graduates, but also the global crafting community to fulfil the challenge of creating their own exquisite, fabric Momiji doll.

Choux Choux the winning entry by Louise Evans aka Felt Mistress

Choux Choux the winning entry by Louise Evans aka 'Felt Mistress'

Momiji ['mom-ee-jee'] are the oddly-addictive, hand-painted collectible message dolls, launched three years ago from the English village of Henley in Arden (previously best known for its ice cream!) since when through their collaboration with the freshest design talent they have attained international cult status and were included in the goodie bags at last year’s Brit Awards.

Exhibtion of Momiji Couture Competition finalists at Royal/T

Exhibition of Momiji Couture Contest finalists at Royal/T

Chelsea College of Art and Design in London hosted the judging of the contest and the panel included Pip McCormac the commissioning editor of the Sunday Times Style Magazine, Beth Smith deputy editor of Selvedge Magazine, and Susan Hancock the owner on the innovative and quirky Royal/T in Los Angeles, and Barbara Hulaniciki, founder of the highly influential Biba, who said, “I am absolutely amazed by the standard of the entries. I’d be rather intrigued to see all the designers in person as I wonder whether each doll was created in their maker’s image!”

Royal/T

Royal/T

After many hours of deliberation, in December the judges chose Louise Evans AKA ‘Felt Mistress’ as the winner for her Marie Antoinette-esque entry Choux Choux, which was adorned with an elaborate, towering wig. Choux Choux and the twenty short listed finalists are now on display in a special exhibition until 18 January 2010 at the extraordinary Royal/T in Los Angeles until which imaginatively fuses a 10,000 square foot gallery and retail space with the city’s first Japanese inspired maid café.

The maid café at Royal/T

The maid café at Royal/T

Links

Momiji
www.lovemomiji.com

Royal/T
www.royal-t.org

Last call for entries: Momiji Couture Contest

by Guy Sangster Adams

Momiji Couture Contest launch at the New Designers Show

Momiji Couture Contest launch at the New Designers Show

Be quick! The deadline is fast approaching for entries to the Momiji Couture Contest which closes 30th October 2009.  Momiji are the hand-painted collectible message dolls, launched three years ago from the English village of Henley in Arden (previously best known for its ice cream!) since when through their collaboration with the freshest design talent they have attained international cult status.

The Momiji Couture Contest competition launched at the New Designers show at the Business Design Centre in Islington, London,  in July, calling for entries from fashion and textile students & graduates as well as the global crafting community, to fulfil the challenge of creating their own exquisite, fabric Momiji doll.

Royal/T

Royal/T

The competition judges include Barbara Hulaniciki, founder of the highly influential Biba, Pip McCormac the commissioning editor of the Sunday Times Style Magazine, Beth Smith deputy editor of Selvedge Magazine, and Susan Hancock the owner on the innovative and quirky Royal/T in Los Angeles.

The Contest’s shortlisted ten finalists will be showcased in a special exhibition at Royal/T, which imaginatively fuses a 10,000 square foot gallery and retail space with Los Angeles’ first Japanese inspired maid café.

Royal/T café

Royal/T café

For a full design brief for the contest and details on how to enter, go to:
www.lovemomiji.com/couture

Links:
Royal/T
www.royal-t.org

Selvedge Magazine
www.selvedge.org

Exhibition: London Creatives Polish Roots

Museum of London
1st October - 1st November 2009

by Guy Sangster Adams

Adam Ficek photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Adam Ficek photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Londoners listening to travel news on the capital’s local radio stations will be overtly familiar with hearing that rush hour traffic is stretching back past the Polish War Memorial on the A40; one of the main routes into London. But in that familiarity how often do listeners hearing the name, or those using it to give directions, actually specifically register the words they are hearing or saying - that it is Polish and that it is a war memorial - or, for the post war generations particularly, the significance of those words, such is the degree that this West London landmark has been assimilated into the city. But in fact the memorial does more than commemorate the specificities of its name it also bears witness to all the political upheavals and changes of the last seventy years of Polish history, and many of the different routes and reasons that have brought Poles to live in London.

The Polish War Memorial, which commemorates the 1902 Polish airmen who lost their lives in World War II fighting as part of the Polish Air Forces in France and Great Britain, was not government sponsored, rather it was erected with the help of contributions from the British public by officers from the Polish Air Force Association, who were among those that had been evacuated from Poland in 1939 following the Nazi-Soviet invasions of Poland, and who could not return to their homeland post-war due to the Soviet occupation. It was designed by the sculptor Mieczyslaw Lubelski who had survived internment in a concentration camp following his role in the Warsaw Uprising. It was not until after the fall of the Berlin wall in 1989 and the subsequent fall of the communist regime in Poland and the birth of the democratic Third Polish Republic that a Polish president, Lech Walesa in 1991, visited the memorial, whilst the second presidential visit, by Aleksander Kwaśniewsk in 2004, was in the same year that Poland joined the European Union. As a coda, the British Government’s official memorial to the 500,000 Polish military personnel that fought under British command in World War II and constituted  the fourth largest allied army in the fight against Nazi Germany was unveiled on 19th September this year.

Waldemar Januszczak photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Waldemar Januszczak photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

The dichotomy inherent in the Polish War Memorial, of being both an intrinsic part of the fabric of London whilst also tacitly representing successive layers of Polish national and cultural identity is at the heart of the exhibition London Creatives: Polish Roots. Conceived by the London based Polish creative practitioners photographer Grzegorz Lepiarz and filmmaker Bartek Dziadosz, and Anna Tryc-Bromley the Deputy Director of the Polish Cultural Institute in London, the exhibition is presented in conjunction with the Museum of London where it runs from 1st October to 1st November 2009. The exhibition features black and white portraits and accompanying video interviews with the growing number of Londoners of Polish origin, or Poles living in London, who play a key role in the cultural identity of the city, and explores how London and their Polish identity have affected their creativity and  approaches to life and work in the capital. As Wanda Koscia Rostowska, a BBC producer and director specializing in history and current affairs who was born in London to Polish parents says in the trailer for the exhibition,”it’s this culture of tolerance and art, of living alongside each other and compromise, that sets the tone for London and the parameters in which all this variety can thrive and survive.”

Michael Nyman photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Michael Nyman photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

The process of being photographed and interviewed for the exhibition also lead the subjects to question their identities. As Adam Ficek, drummer with Babyshambles, who has just released the first album from his solo project Roses Kings Castles, writes in his blog, “it’s quite odd, I’m not Polish, or am I? How do you know? Blood? Place of birth? Parents? I have never considered myself Polish to an extent but I have always had a healthy interest in where my grandparents were born and raised.” Whilst composer Michael Nyman, who was born in the East End and whose grandparents on both sides were Polish Jews who had left Poland for London at the turn of the last century, says in the trailer, “I don’t know how Polish I feel, I don’t know how Jewish I feel, I don’t know how English I feel.”

Featuring three generations, the exhibition also by extension reflects the changes that have brought the subjects to London, be it fleeing persecution by the Nazi’s and the Soviets, the search for freedom of creative expression during the Cold War, or the freedom to study, live, work and collaborate with different nationalities across the member states that accession to the EU has brought.

Zbigniew Pelczynski, emeritus Professor of Political Science at Oxford University who taught the future US President Bill Clinton, was as a teenage volunteer in the Polish Home Army and fought in the Warsaw Uprising, but as a result of the members of the Home Army being demonised by the Soviet Union was not welcome in post-war Poland. Whilst Mira Hamermesh, the award-winning documentary film-maker, writer and artist, was one a group of Jewish teenagers who managed to escape Wilno-Vilnius in World War II for Palestine before coming to London to study at the Slade School of Arts; both her parents died in the Holocaust.

Iwona Blazwick photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Iwona Blazwick photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

The representatives of the baby boomer generation born in London to Polish parents include Iwona Blazwick, the director of the Whitechapel Art Gallery, art critic Waldemar Januszczak, and Andrew Czezowski who ran the infamous Punk club The Roxy, before going on to create The Fridge in Brixton.

Andrew Czezowski photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Andrew Czezowski photographed by Grzegorz Lepiarz

Whilst artist Slawa Harasymowicz is indicative of a new generation, as are Lepiarz and Dziadosz themselves. Harasymowicz grew up in Krakow, before coming to London to study at Royal College of Art, from where she graduated in 2006, and has continued to live and work in London. Lepiarz moved to London in 2002 and has since worked with BBC3, Royksopp, Gotan Project, Emiliana Torrini, Storm model agency, and LMVH. With the exhibition he was equally interested in stripping away the layers people project around themselves, as he says, “In the creative fields of music and visual arts, the branding of the person, their ‘image’, becomes an integral part of their life. I wanted to capture the essence of a person’s individuality, within the soulful moments of their silence. I believe that these moments, the ones behind the glamour, are the portraits worth registering.”

Illuminating, intriguing, reflective, and moving, London Creatives: Polish Roots is also both a wonderful celebration of the enduring dynamism and openness of London’s cultural identity but also the resurgence of Polish creative expression that has followed the birth of the new Polish republic, and of course the excitement and innovation of the coalescence of the two; entirely fitting in the build up to the twentieth anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

London Creatives Polish Roots runs from 1st October to 1st November at Museum of London, London Wall, London EC2

The exhibition is part of Polska Year, running from Spring 2009 to Spring 2010 featuring over 200 projects which showcase contemporary Polish film, theatre, architecture, design, music & fashion.

Links
London Creatives Polish Roots
www.polishcreatives.org

Grzegorz Lepiarz
www.photogl.com

Museum of London
www.museumoflondon.org.uk

Polish Cultural Institute
www.polishculture.org.uk

Polska Year
www.polskayear.pl

The Wolfmen: Marco Pirroni & Chris Constantinou

wolfmen-marco-chris-sixties-chair1

by Guy Sangster Adams

To put an exact start point on The Wolfmen, whose new AA-side single Cecilie and Wak This Bass has just been released, is slightly to miss the point of why and how they came together. But I only realise this having suggested 2004, to which vocalist and bass player Chris Constantinou, replies questioningly “I think it was 2006, wasn’t it?” and guitarist Marco Pirroni says with a smile, “I can’t remember, I mean I don’t know where I was last week, it was all very organic as they say, it just sort of happened with no real plans to do anything you know.”

From the outset, which for the non-organically minded the press release splits the difference with 2005, it was very important to Pirroni and Constantinou that The Wolfmen would be an umbrella name for their work on a wide range of projects over and above the traditional concept of a band. A range that, as Pirroni says, “makes it interesting, I mean I’ve spent my entire life in bands; in the twilight of my years going back into a band… I never really wanted The Wolfmen to be a band with drums and amps and vans and flight cases and things like that” though he then adds “but this is what we are turning into.” To which Constantinou reposts “Well we’ve turned into it, but we’ve missed the van, we haven’t done the van!” and Pirroni retorts, “Hopefully we’ll go straight to bus! I don’t really want to do the van!” An exchange which leaves them both laughing.

The laughter is symptomatic not only of the great iconoclastic rapport between the two men but also of the wonderful atmosphere that pervades the South London studio in which The Wolfmen have taken up residence to not only record the follow up to last year’s debut album, Modernity Killed Every Night, but also produce new albums by Sinead O’Connor (Pirroni has worked with O’Connor on her four previous albums) and Daler Mehndi [?], and where I go to meet them. Pirroni and Constantinou are clearly thoroughly enjoying the present, which although informed by their pasts they are clearly not shackled by them, the ‘then’ is viewed with as much enjoyment as the ‘now’, which consequently denudes The Wolfmen of retrogression and makes the project the latest step in an exiting journey.

For Pirroni this began at the age of 17 when he played guitar in the impromptu and infamous first incarnation of Siouxsie & the Banshees, which also included Sid Vicious on drums, for their 20 minute set improvised around The Lord’s Prayer at the 100 Club Punk Festival in London on 20th September 1976. He went on to play with The Models, Rema Rema, and Cowboys International before in 1980 he joined Adam Ant in the new line up of Adam and the Ants and began a phenomenally successful and highly influential song writing partnership, with the albums Kings of the Wild Frontier and Prince Charming reaching number one and two respectively and a string of Top Ten singles including Ant Music, Dog Eat Dog, Prince Charming, and Stand and Deliver which won Ivor Novello awards for Pirroni and Ant. When the Ants disbanded in 1982 Constantinou, who had worked closely with Diz Watson and been in the band Drill, joined as the bass player in a new line up with Pirroni and Ant performing under the name Adam Ant. The albums Friend or Foe, Strip, and Vive Le Rock followed along with another nine Top 20 singles, including the number one Goody Two Shoes.

marco-and-adam-3

“It feels very normal,” Pirroni replies to my question as to how it feels when one’s in the midst of such success, “because it’s all very gradual, it’s not like one day you’re in a club and the next day you’re playing huge venues; the venues start getting bigger, then there’s more people in your crew, you find yourself in business class, then you find yourself in first class, it’s almost like you don’t notice it. It only struck me once in Japan, I was in a hotel room looking out of the window at the Tokyo skyline and I thought how did I get here?! Eighteen months ago I was sitting at home with an acoustic guitar and now I’m here. There are moments when you think is this really happening or am I just imagining this, is this a sort of daydream I’m having.”

That it is now approaching three decades since Pirroni first teamed up with Ant also disconcerts him, “I can’t grasp that concept of 30 years,” he says, “it seems like, I know it’s a long time, but it seems like 8 years ago, but as we get older, I keep thinking, God, I’m going to be dead in another 30 years.” To which Constantinou chips in, “You might be dead before that!” and to Pirroni’s response of “Thanks that’s really cheered me up!” laughingly ripostes “30 years, that’s a bit ambitious! You’re a rock star you’re supposed to be dead!”

With the passing of time the influence of the Adam Ant/Adam & The Ants back catalogue is increasing rather than diminishing with Carl Barât and Tim Burgess covering Antmusic for C4’s Transmission last year, and Stand & Deliver featuring on the soundtrack of the current series of Gossip Girl, the list of acts taking inspiration also includes Suede, Elastica, Nine Inch Nails, Robbie Williams, Sugar Ray. “You listen to a lot of young bands, 18 to 20 years olds, now you can hear the influences,” says Constantinou, “they’ve probably taken it from the generation after us; it’s great.” Pirroni concurs saying “I am such a product of my influences, in my mind everything is shoehorned in like a great big jigsaw puzzle, to be someone else’s influence is really nice; I always wanted to be someone’s influence.”

The influenced also become collaborators, as Constantinou explains, “we met up with Courtney Taylor-Taylor from the Dandy Warhols recently, and he’s going to be mixing some tracks on this album, and he was saying Marco was his guitar hero.” Indeed, it was Pirroni’s idiosyncratic guitar sound that triggered the reunion between Pirroni and Constantinou, their paths having diverged in the mid-90s, and the formation of The Wolfmen. “We weren’t in touch for a while,” explains Constantinou, “and then I was with Jackie Onassid and trying to get the guitar sound that Marco does, and I ended up trying to do it myself very badly, and then I thought in the end I’d just phone him” which as Pirroni explains is “the strange thing that happens to me, a lot of people phone up and say do you know anyone that plays like you; for some reason they’re too shy to say do you want to do it, and so I end up saying, what about him, he could do me!”

The Wolfmen’s first projects were all soundtracks. They created the music for the series I Predict A Riot, presented by Loaded founder James Brown and screened by Bravo in January 2006, and in May 2006 their soundtracks accompanied two films in the inaugural Fashion in Film Festival (FFF). As Pirroni explains, “Marketa [Uhlirova the director of FFF] phoned us up and said do you want to do some music for a silent film; so we did a kind of rock soundtrack to two films.” Screened as part of the Shoes, Eroticism, and Fetish programme of the festival the films were The Gay Shoe Clerk (Edwin S. Porter, 1903) and Amor Pedestre (Love on Foot, Marcel Fabre 1914). Both very much enjoyed the process, Constantinou describes the films as “amazing” and says “that it would be good to get that [the soundtracks] out at some point” and Pirroni says, “We wanted to do more but they haven’t asked us!” I suggest that waiting to be asked is slightly daft as he is now on the board of FFF, but he demurs with a smile “I think it would be a bit embarrassing to be there at these board meetings with all these academics and go to them, oh we’ll do that, and we’ll do that as well!”

In many ways Pirroni presaged his involvement in FFF with the sequence of CDS he released in 2003 and 2004 on his Only Lovers Left Alive label which explored both his own influences and fashion’s relationship to rock. The three albums Sex: Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die, Granny Takes A Trip: Conversation’s Dead Man (compiled by Nigel and Louis Waymouth) and Biba: Champagne and Novacaine featured the music played in each shop.

The links to fashion have continued with The Wolfmen’s 2007 collaboration with Primal Scream on a cover version of Screaming Jay Hawkins being used for an Alexander McQueen catwalk show, and the shoot for the video for the new single Cecilie playing an infamous part in the last series of Living TV’s Britain’s Next Top Model, when tantrums and stand-offs ensued as not all the proto-models relished director Paul Hills’ rock bordello concept; the footage of which is all now on You Tube!

An elegant erudition imbues the new single as a whole, as Pirroni and Constantinou, with infinite panache and a broad lupine smile that equally attests they have lost none of their bite, play fast and loose with all they have accrued in the past 30 plus years, cutting a glitter dusted swath across the tracks and their track record, like the tail of a comet across a perfect midnight blue sky. Cecilie broods like a femme fatale in killer heels caught in a tornado guitar spiral, Wak this Bass is a feedback triggered Jack in the Box grabber of glamour punk. Be seduced; lycanthropy is nothing to be scared of!

wolfmen-band-shot

Watch a filmed interview with Marco Pirroni and Chris Constantinou and the video for Cecilie on the Plectrum Broadcast Player

Links

The Wolfmen

www.thewolfmen.net

www.myspace.com/thewolfmen

Fashion in Film Festival

www.fashioninfilm.com

The Irrepressibles

the-irrepressibles-picture

by Guy Sangster Adams

With music that enwraps, enraptures, and enobles, a stunning visuality in performance that combines elaborate, fantastical costume and make-up, balletic motif, and fabulous spectacle, such as the island stage, gondola, and white butterflies of last summer’s Latitude appearance, the first time, and indeed every time, one sees The Irrepressibles is a magical experience.

My first time was within the entirely appropriate dramatic majesty of the British Museum’s Great Court last November. Where, as part of the Statuephilia exhibition, The Irrepressibles, in tight fitting stone coloured garments and fabric swathes, and barefeet - statues come to life - performed on an impromptu stage in front of the Reading Room to a wonderfully eclectic audience of those that knew and those that were passing by. Everyone, be they friends, fans, PR company invitees, museum staff and visitors from near and far, were taken on a such a transcendent journey which swooped and swirled around the curves and porticos of the entire two acre space and uplifted to the undulating diamonds of Norman Foster’s glass roof, which had it not been there I would have floated off to the stars quite happily!

“Where it began,” explains singer songwriter Jamie McDermott, whose brainchild The Irrepressibles are, “was that I was writing songs with acoustic guitar and performing incredibly cathartic and explorative of the voice song based work that was becoming so intense that it needed something to surround it, and it was either go more to my roots, because I come from more of a rock background, or surround it with classical instrumentation.”

The resultant phantasmagorical orchestrated glamour pop played on guitar, violin, viola, cello, double bass, piano, flute, oboe, cor anglais, clarinet, saxophone, and percussion by this elegant 10 piece, is baroque mixed with a flicker book of rock n roll finest stances, via Derek Jarman’s Caravaggio and Todd Haynes’ Velvet Goldmine, akin to discovering Jean Genie being played on 17th century instruments in platform boots, tutus and ruffs, in a private audience with Pope Pius X in an ice cream parlour.

McDermott brought the first incarnation of The Irrepressibles together in 2002, which was a smaller group consisting of cello, violin, piano, bass, and McDermott playing guitar, whilst he was studying for a degree in Commercial Music at University of Westminster. The course, which was the first in the country to offer a mixed syllabus of music production and the study of music as culture, had a profound effect on the creation of The Irrepressibles. “It was entering this world of looking at music and also looking at what it can do sociologically, in terms of subcultures and things like that, which really began to fascinate me,” says McDermott, “and I started to read and understand and look at how I could create a project that might be more art based and I got very interested in the KLF, Bill Drummond, and Malcolm McLaren.” With McDermott’s studies coinciding with the relentless rise of the new generation of music talent shows, beginning with Pop Idol, Popstars, and Fame Academy, he realised that his new project also needed to take note of that, as he explains, “I wanted to create something that could take it on from a business level, that could take it on from a PR level.”

Further to that, McDermott says, “For me The Irrepressibles is about two things and one is that really honest catharsis and letting that through, I wanted to try to express something about being gay and about being in love as a gay man in a way that people would understand even if they were straight, or that people would just appreciate, rather than it being sensational or it being a certain sort of style of music, and the other thing is about play, we’re playing and we’re performing, but it’s like children playing and performing, it can’t go to that level where it’s very serious, I’m not really interested in that; I wanted to create something that a child can appreciate, but also something that someone who’s really into music can appreciate, then also someone from the council estate where I’m from can get.”

McDermott grew up in Scarborough, North Yorkshire, where he began piano lessons at 11 paid for by his paper round and quickly began to write his own songs and compose music, as he says, “I’d stand on the beach at Scarborough, or on top of the cliff by the castle, looking out at the sea, and just start to compose in my head.” He expands on this by saying, “my brain tends to work in harmony and the parts are quite polyphonic” which informs the idiosyncratic sound of The Irrepressibles because, as McDermott says, “with a rock band you’ve got a drummer that backs it, and with classical music you’ve got a conductor who leads it, but in The Irrepressibles there’s neither drums nor a conductor, so it’s kind of polyphonic parts that are all feeding into one rhythmical underpinning and often that’s from the guitar.”

After “flunking school”, McDermott went to sixth form college in Scarborough to study art, music, and drama, and in Sadie Parker, his A level drama teacher, met “one of the most important figures” in his life, who introduced him to a wealth of eclectic music and performance inspirations including the Carmina Burana, Bladerunner, Joan Littlewood, Martha Graham and Merce Cunningham all of which have influenced the multi-disciplinary style of The Irrepressibles. Unsurprisingly David Bowie is a big influence, but equally many of the singers that particularly inspire him are female, Laurie Anderson, PJ Harvey, Yma Summic, Kate Bush, and the composer and performer Meredith Monk who describes her approach as working “between the cracks, where the voice starts dancing, where the body starts singing, where theater becomes cinema.”

Adding to the idiosyncratic roots of The Irrepressibles, following his A levels McDermott took a detour into “flamboyant cock rock”, having been awarded a scholarship to study rock singing in Guildford, the camp Spinal Tap humour of which is not lost on him as he explains that the course also involved being leather clad, taught to star jump and sing The Final Countdown! But, his singing teacher on the course unlocked the extraordinary breadth of his vocal range which is particularly evident in The Irrepressibles’ live performances when he will swoop through singing styles, up and down the vocal register, sometimes within one song, fusing operatic, choral, crooner, and Elvis Presley-esque.

By the close of his rock school course, McDermott had broken away from the genre and had begun to write the acoustic songs that would form the basis of his two solo albums Newclear Skies and Nude. Both of which received critical plaudits and comparisons to Jeff Buckley. Though the more prevalent Buckley reference that strikes one when listening to The Irrepressibles is Tim Buckley and in particular Song to the Siren which McDermott concurs is a big influence.

McDermott is currently putting the finishing touches to The Irrepressibles debut album, meantime they have been confirmed in the line up for this July’s Latitude, a festival they have very much made their own and are certain to once again take by storm with McDermott’s most elaborate and fantastic creation for the band to date, The Human Music Box. Which will be premiered on 19th June as part of the V&A’s Baroque 1620-1800: Style in the Age of Magnificience, an exhibition for which The Irrepressibles are tailor made as they have resolutely brought magnifience back into style.

Unsigned Focus: Kate Daisy Grant

kategrantcdfront

by Guy Sangster  Adams

Though she wrote some of the songs as long as seven years ago, the impetus for unsigned singer songwriter Kate Daisy Grant to record her debut album, One Thing You Should Know About Me, came last year through a serendipitous meeting at Maison Bertaux with the songwriter, producer and multi-instrumentalist Ken Rose. Grant was playing the battered, out of tune, upright piano in the tea-shop, which has been a beacon of fabulous cakes and intellectualism in London’s Soho since 1871, whilst Rose, a member of Marianne Faithfull’s band, had just finished playing guitar on Faithfull’s ‘Songs of Innocence and Experience’ tour. Discovering that they shared far more than floral names, the meeting generated a symbiosis through, as Grant says, “their perfectly matched mismatchedness”—she describes Rose as an “arch dude of LA horizontal ‘tude” and herself as a “spider-lashed Victorian marionette with slight Tourette’s”—and they decided to make a record.

The resultant album features an highly eclectic array of instruments, both acutely traditional and cutely non-traditional, as piano and autoharp are melded with the contents of a cavernous rainy day play box, containing a scarlet toy piano, toy bells, a bright yellow teapot, drums full of pennies, a double bass playing robot, and a string quartet is set against an orchestra of “cobbled together objects.” Given such a list it is not surprising that Grant says, “when we were recording I’ve never laughed so much, and when we play live and Ken’s playing glockenspiels and dustbin lids, if I catch a glimpse of that I piss myself!”

The presence of glockenspiels on a 2000’s pop album is as refreshingly kooky as the complete absence of glottal stops; in fact Grant’s singing voice is very hard to categorise or to place geographically. Born to a parental mix of Scottish-Dutch-French-English, her speaking voice transfuses Home Counties through West London, but in song, she has a completely seductive perfect counterpoise between breathy fragility and lip biting ardency, vulnerability and supremacy. In her lighter shades she might be Nordic or French with echoes of Ida Marie or Julie Delpy (particularly in the waltz title track, which brings to mind Delpy’s A Waltz for a Night from the soundtrack of Before Sunset), whilst her smokier, darker tones on the tracks Peaches or Truth evoke PJ Harvey or Siouxsie Sioux.

Songs of Innocence and Experience, the title that Faithfull borrowed from poet and painter William Blake’s two contrasting collections of poetry, might also be partly applied as a description of Grant’s album. Blakes’ works juxtapose an exploration of how the naivety of childhood hopes and fears are corrupted and repressed by the harsh realities of adult life. But in the songs on One Thing You Should Know About Me the knowing and the ingénue co-exist in the same moment; the losses of innocence, love, people do not bide their time for adulthood, and becoming an adult does not halt their tide. Grant describes the songs as coming “from the junk shop of my heart” though they are also infused with a magical toyshop as she is also very influenced by the work of the writer, animator and puppeteer Oliver Postgate, who created the children’s television programmes Bagpuss and The Clangers, and Victorian fairy tales like the Brothers Grimm and Henrich Hoffman’s Struwwelpeter. As Grant explains, “It’s me cherry picking things that were comforting to me when I was growing up—they were my favourite bits of childhood—and the Victorian era, that’s when fairy tales became popular; just to expose your children to the perils of strangers and the dangers of even loving something. That’s what struck me about Bagpuss, you really care about the characters, even if you are being told an incidental story about a little haggis creature or whatever, it’s all to do with them leaving. The Victoriana and the melchancholia spoke to me as a child; I liked sadnesses.”

Grant read a lot of World War I poetry whilst recording the album and this informs the theme of loss, as well as being a specific reference on two tracks. Truth is inspired both by the Wilfrid Owen poem Strange Meeting, “about meeting your doppelganger who you’ve just killed; could be part of yourself you’ve just killed” and Under Storm’s Wing the autobiography of Helen Thomas, wife of the poet Philip Edward Thomas who was killed in action in the Battle of Arras in 1917. Thomas had only turned to writing poetry under the stress of whether or not to enlist - as a married man in his late thirties at the outbreak of the war, he was not required to do so. Grant says, “It was one of the most upsetting books I’ve ever read, Helen Thomas said that the last time he left she knew for a fact that she was never going to see him again and he walked so slowly away from her, and it was snowing, and he just walked into the darkness, and they kept calling out, hello, hello, hello… until they couldn’t hear each other anymore.”

Harmsway, which is also inspired by WWI is a far more upbeat track, “at that point I was reading about the hopefulness of everyone setting off,” says Grant, “and it’s as if it’s their last stop in a town before they hit the battlefield - that one joyful, abandoned moment, where one is still clinging to the innocence of love songs and the innocent sentiments of what you think life means before you’re chucked in the deep end.” The opening bars of Harmsway have an echo of Tom Waits’ Innocent When You Dream, but although Grant cites Tom Waits as a specific inspiration she says that she has never heard the track, which adds an intriguing layer of referential chance.

Grant describes the WWI poetry as “the extremity of experience of facing your worst and then producing the best and most beautiful” which would make an equally apt epigraph for One Thing You Should Know About Me. “It is a cathartic album,” she says, “but it’s cathartic enough that I wouldn’t have to write an album like that again. Definitely the songs that I’m writing now are much lighter.”

One Thing You Should Know About Me seizes the listener from the seemingly carefree waltz of the title track, which is actually a decadent dance along the precipice, on an extraordinarily tempestuous voyage, through extreme pitches and rolls of emotions, and the spectre of an ominous wave that threatens to engulf everything, but leaves one ‘with the wild waves whisht’ in the last track, The Language of Science, which dazzles like the molten gold of low sunlight on wavelets, atremble with the thrills of after-shock, and imbued with the insight and wisdom of a survivor and the strength of resolve and beauty of hope that only the journey of experience can bestow on one.

Watch a filmed interview with Kate Daisy Grant and a performance of her song The Language of  Science on the Plectrum Broadcast Player.

Kate Daisy Grant has self-released One Thing You Should Know About Me and it is available as a download from iTunes, Napster, eMusic et al, or on CD at her gigs. She is playing live dates in London throughout April and May, for details click on the link below.

Links
www.myspace.com/katedaisygrantmusic

Carla Borel’s StillSoho by Barry Miles

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Carla Borel lives and works in the West End. Her pictures are of Soho people but are not necessarily taken in Soho. She usually has a camera with her, waiting for that happy juxtaposition of light and shadow, shapes and gestures that distinguish a fine photograph from an ordinary snap, when everyday life arranges itself into a composition.

She works in an honourable tradition, beginning with Kurt Hutton’s famous photo essay on the French House in 1941, through John Deakin’s revealing portraiture of Francis Bacon and his circle, Charles ‘Slim’ Hewitt’s fifties Soho clubs and Ida Kar’s London painter series.

On her shelves are much consulted volumes of Lisette Model, Brassai and David Bailey’s sixties photographs - all masters of the monochrome. Like Bailey, she uses unfocused backgrounds to form abstract organic shapes and her pictures owe a lot to the photographers of that decade.

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Sometimes the images fall into place easily: In ‘Even a Stopped Clock Tells the Right Time Twice a Day’, Simon Crabb on the bed, preparing to light one cigarette from another, just needed the raised arm, the angle of the fresh cigarette to make the composition.

At other times it is the recognition of patterns and textures: ‘Bourchier Street’ sees French House manager, Hilary Penn walking down ‘Piss Alley’, her polka dot dress echoed by the tie worn by Paul Lawford from the Rubbish Men and contrasting with the security grilles and blank concrete wall.

Paul Lawford appears again, caught in characteristic pose, his dark hair, beard and hat perfect for framing his eyes. In another picture, artist Stephen Fowler poses nervously in Beak Street with his bicycle, nicely chopping the window into the golden section.

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My favourite is of Michael Smith, author of The Giro Playboy, and Mandana Ruane, manager of the Academy Club, sprawling on the pavement outside the club on Lexington Street at 2am on a hot summer night. It is a classic Soho image, combining misbehaviour and the familiar Soho setting of the faded grandeur of Georgian townhouses and recycling bins. This was a carefully composed shot, Borel had to wait until a passing car illuminated the couple with its headlights in order to shoot the scene. It’s like a movie still, it suggests a story, a series of images continuing before and after this moment in time.

Borel sometimes explores photographic clichés and makes them new: here the shot of lovers in the mirror becomes a tangle of curves and shapes, and the lovers outside the Soho House must have been just irresistible.

©Barry Miles 2009

About the author:

In 1966 Barry Miles co-founded Indica Books and Gallery, where John Lennon and Yoko Ono first met, and the Internaional Times (IT), Europe’s first underground newspaper, as a fund raiser for which hee co-organised the 14 Hour Technicolor Dream in 1967. A prolific author, his books include biographies of Paul McCartney, William Burroughs, Jack Kerouac, Frank Zappa, Charles Bukowski, and The Beat Hotel, In the Sixties,  Hippie, and Peace: 50 Years of Protest, 1958-2008.

StillSoho Photographs by Carla Borel runs until 31st May 2009 at The French House, 49 Dean Street, Soho, London W1

Links
www.myspace/carlaborel

Kinoteka - The 7th Polish Film Festival

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by Guy Sangster Adams

Kinoteka is the annual flagship event of the Polish Cultural Institute, a non-profit organisation, linked to the Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs, dedicated to promoting Polish culture in Britain. Marlena Lukasiac has been the artistic director of Kinoteka for the last four years, in which time she has overseen its development from a one day event at London’s Riverside Studios showcasing contemporary Polish films to this year’s 7th annual Polish Film Festival which not only features its widest ranging programme to date, presenting New Polish Cinema, a celebration of the 20th anniversary of Krzystof Kieslowski’s Dekalog, and a retrospective of Polish New Wave, but also its widest reaching programme whereby in addition to its London programme, which continues until 8 April, in March Kinoteka began began a nationwide tour which has already visited Belfast, Cardiff, Swansea, Aberystwyth, Mold, and Hereford, and from 20 April - 4 May will form part of Canterbury’s Sounds New Festival, before continuing to Bristol, Warwick, and Wolverhampton.

Lukasiac brought the retrospective element to the festival because, as she says, “I think it’s nice to show the films which are now recognised as masterpieces, and make people think why they are masterpieces, what makes a film survive, and in Polish cinema there are so many wonderful masterpieces that can be fully appreciated by a foreign audience.”

In this year’s festival, the juxtaposition of the retrospective and the contemporary also illustrates and contextualises the seismic changes and extraordinary cultural journey that Poland has undergone over the last 70 years. The key featured directors fall neatly into two generations. Jerzy Skolimowski, Andrzej Zulawski, and Kieslowski, born in 1938, 1940, and 1941 respectively, were born into a terrible stage of Polish history as 6 million Poles lost their lives in World War II—the highest percentage of a population of any of the countries involved in the war—and Warsaw was nigh on completely reduced to rubble, followed by the USSR’s post-war absorption of Poland into the Eastern Bloc stymieing many freedoms of creative and cultural expression. Whilst Malgoska Szumowska and Kaisa Adamik were both born in the early 1970s and came of age with the reduction to rubble of the Berlin Wall in 1989, the fall of communism and Poland’s subsequent rebirth as the democratic Republic of Poland, and the country’s entry into the European Union in 2004.

The censorship of the Communist era acutely affected the careers of Skolimowski, Zulawski, and Kieslowski, leading them, at different points in their careers to both make films in co-production with other European countries and to live outside Poland. Skolimowski is based in Los Angeles and in recent years has been far more visible as an actor, appearing most recently in David Cronenberg’s Eastern Promises. But, after a 17 year directorial hiatus, his new film 4 Nights with Anna, a black comedy about obsessive love and voyeurism, received its British premiere as part of the Kinoteka’s London programme. Zulawski moved to France in 1972, where he still lives, to escape the type of censorship that was meted out on his cult mid-1970s sci-fi epic On the Silver Globe which was suppressed and almost destroyed by the Polish authorities, a newly-mastered version of which he introduced to open the Polish New Wave season.

For Kieslowski it was, as Lukasiac says, “problems in a different kind of censorship because when he made Dekalog he was heavily criticised in Poland” that lead him to make what would be his last films The Double Life of Veronique and the Three Colours Trilogy predominantly outside Poland as French and Swiss co-productions. The success of these films directly lead to the posthumous international release of Dekalog which has become the most critically acclaimed film cycle of all time.

Parallels are often drawn between Malgoska Szumowska, and Kieslowski, in response to which she told online magazine Aviva-Berlin, “it seems it’s hard not to compare me to him, not because of the style of the films but because of the fact that I start to make films internationally.” Szumowska’s 33 Scenes From Life, which explores how a woman in her early thirties copes with losing both her parents in quick succession, is a German/Polish co-production, and her next film is being shot in France. “I think that is what’s happening in Polish cinema,” explains Lukasiac, “we have many co-productions with France, Germany, Britain, that’s what the Polish Film Institute is interested in, which I think is just a natural thing in Europe now, you have to mingle, you have to exchange.”

This internationalism also links Szumowska to Kaisa Adamik, though they also have in common the fact that they are both the children of filmmakers—Szumowska’s father was the late Maciej Szumowski, and Adamik’s parents are Agnieszka Holland, director of the Golden Globe winning Europa Europa, and Laco Adamik—and that they are part of a new generation of female directors overturning the previously heavily male dominated Polish cinema. Adamik was brought up in Paris, and has already had an extensive career in Hollywood as a storyboard artist. Her first feature film, ark, was an English language US production, whilst her second feature, The Offsiders, a comedy drama about a football team made up of homeless people, is both her first film to be both in Polish and a Polish production, and is included in this year’s Kinoteka.

One name that at first glance is perhaps surprising to find in the programme of a Polish Film is Michael Nyman. But Lukasiac explains that when she met Nyman at a film festival in Poland, he told her his grandparents on both sides were Polish, “their families moved to England at the beginning of the twentieth century, and his parents, who were both from Polish Jewish families, met here in England.” Michael Nyman joins forces with Motion Trio, an innovative and experimental Polish accordion trio, for the Kinoteka London Closing Night Gala Concert at the Barbican, in which they will not only reinterpret a selection of Nyman’s film scores, but also present the World premiere of Nyman’s celebration of Polish cinema that will be performed alongside a montage from the films that have inspired him, including the work of Andrzej Wadja, Zulawski, and Kieslowski.

With such a list of names, who have inspired so many audiences and filmmakers alike, it is clear that Poland’s, as Lukasiac says, “struggle to establish ourselves, to establish a spirit of Polish cinema” particularly over the last two decades since the fall of Communism is very much coming to fruition. “There’s a huge improvement in quality and a recognition,” says Lukasiac, in which both her passion and determination and the work of the PCI as a whole has played a key role in what has been a steep climb as she explains, “some countries have been promoting their culture for so many years and they have had the tools and means to do so, whereas we are like small toddlers who are trying to shout, yeah we are here! Please look at us!” Even the most cursory glance at the Kinoteka programme should convince one to heed Lukasiac’s exhortation and take a far closer look at the films, exhibitions, and events that make up the festival.

Links

www.kinoteka.org.uk

www.polishculture.org.uk

Steven Severin’s Music for Silents


In January 2003, Steven Severin received an email that redefined his post-Siouxsie and the Banshees creative direction, and lead him to pursue a solo career writing film and television soundtracks. For twenty years, from 1976 to 1996, Severin had played bass in the band which he and Sioux co-founded, and for which they co-wrote the songs. In 2002, they reformed for The Seven Year Itch tour which, Severin says, “went terribly wrong” and was “ill fated and turbulent”. In October of 2002, Severin had married Arban Orneleas, a Texan born multimedia artist, and in the aftermath of the tour, with Arban pregnant with their son Cage, the two “took time out” over Christmas, whilst Severin considered what he wanted to do next. The email resolved his deliberations with a request for him to provide the soundtrack to a British, independent, supernatural thriller, London Voodoo. “I did the whole the score,” he says, “and really loved it, and realised that’s what I wanted to do”.

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Independent Focus: Angular Recording Corporation

It is rare that an inspiration, by its nature often ethereal, may be given a fixed point on a map. But, for Joe Daniel, who co-founded Angular Recording Corporation (ARC) with Joe Margetts in 2003, that is exactly the case. In Hilly Fields, which backs onto the house where he was living in Brockley, South London, Daniel discovered a small concrete pillar, with a plaque stating it was the property of Ordnance Survey and providing a telephone number to report damage. Intrigued, Daniel telephoned the number to report some graffiti. It transpired that the pillar was a Triangulation Station (or Trig Point) used for map-making. For which, a theodolite would be placed on the brass plate (a circle bisected by a ‘Y’ formation of grooves) embedded on top of the pillar to take the required bearings from at least three points - ‘triangulation’. Ordnance Survey told Daniel that satellite technology had made the Triangulation Stations obsolete, and that although an adoption scheme had been discontinued “through lack of interest”, they suggested he unofficially adopt it.

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Daisy de Villeneuve

The multi-coloured, felt-tip rendered, pop cultural celebration of the work of illustrator and product designer, Daisy de Villeneuve, imparts an emphatic joie de vivre. In fact, the only thing monochromatic about de Villeneuve in recent months has been the twice life size, black and white photograph of her that loomed large outside Gap Europe stores as part of the Gap Icon campaign. Photographed by Mikael Jansson and styled by Marie Amelie-Sauve, the series also featured Giles Deacon, Camille Bidault Waddington, and Ines de la Fressange. Though, as befits her style, de Villeneuve has been returned to full colour for the Christmas Gap Holiday campaign.

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